Thomas Keller in action at Harrods
The legendary California chef and the brains behind The French Laundry in Yountville and Per Se in New York City let us into the kitchen at his pop up at Harrod's to make this amazing short film
Friday 21st October 2011, 15:18 UTC
Thomas Keller’s now famous pop-up at Harrods has been and gone. There were great reviews, mutterings about the cost and even other pop-ups muscling in on the act. But, despite all that was said and done, what was achieved in a curtained off area within the confines of the forgotten Georgian restaurant at Harrods was nothing short of a miracle.
I say miracle because there were many who heard the rumour back in 2010 and dismissed it. I know because I was one of them. Thomas Keller told me in March 2010, when I was there to film in the kitchen at The French Laundry, that he would never open a restaurant abroad. There were just too many logistics.
However, all that aside, it happened and it was a fantastic thing and because I had filmed a live service at The French Laundry before I was allowed to come back and film the last lunchtime service at the pop up. We were the only outside camera crew allowed in to watch and record the service and the video above is an exclusive.
The video really tells the story so there is not really a lot to say other than what a treat it was to watch the great man run the service. He doesn’t do it any more at The French Laundry as that is what his Chef de Cuisine, Timothy Hollingsworth, is there to do.
Great chefs tend not to do the hard work as they mature and this was a masterclass from a professional and this was no easy service.
There was the tasting menu, a vegetarian menu and lots of specials for those that had requests and allergies. It was a pop-up, yes, but it was also a real restaurant service with real chefs and real waiters serving real French Laundry food.
The classics were there - the salmon cornet, oysters and pearls, coffee and doughnuts - but the seasons were also respected as were some classic French Laundry ingredients - the lobster, the beef, the Hawaiian hearts of palm and the Californian caviar.
As Keller himself said: “No-one has ever done anything quite like this before. I hope people who do it in the future will look to The French Laundry and Harrods for the benchmark in transplanting a restaurant from one continent to another.”
I don’t think this will be the last international pop-up we will see. Actually I think it is the first of many. But there is one thing that we in the UK should be proud of: Thomas Keller came to London. He didn’t go to Paris, Berlin, Rome, Tokyo or Barcelona. That says something about the importance of London on the world culinary map.
The full menu:
chef’s tasting menu | 1 October 2011
“OYSTERS AND PEARLS”
“Sabayon” of Pearl Tapioca with Maldon Oysters and Sterling White Sturgeon Caviar
SALAD OF HAWAIIAN HEARTS OF PEACH PALM
Medjool Date, Young Coconut, French Laundry Garden Carrots, Red Radish, Candied Pili Nuts and Madras Curry
“CHOWDER”
Sacramento River Sturgeon, Razor Clams, Sweet Corn, Celeriac, and Applewood-Smoked Sturgeon “Bacon”
“BEETS AND LEEKS”
Sweet Butter-Poached Maine Lobster, Heirloom Beets, Leek “Mousseline,” La Ratte Potato and Red Beet Essence
“POULARDE EN BRIOCHE”
Moulard Duck “Foie Gras au Torchon,” Warm Sauternes “Gelée,” Tokyo Turnips, Green Apples and Périgord Truffle Coulis
PRIME MIDWESTERN “CALOTTE DE BŒUF”
“Langue de Bœuf,” Braised Brisket, Black Trumpet Mushrooms, Musquée de Provence Pumpkin, Fennel Bulb and “Sauce Bordelaise”
“MONTE CRISTO SANDWICH”
Pleasant Ridge Reserve, Ibérico Ham, Garden Figs and Noble Maple Syrup
HUCKLEBERRY SORBET
Huckleberry Muffin and Verbena
“S’MORES”
Caramel “Délice,” Peanut Butter “Pavé,” Tahitian Vanilla Marshmallow, Graham Cracker and Popcorn Sherbet
MIGNARDISES
PRIX FIXE 250.00|VAT Included
NEWS JUST IN!
Watch Thomas Keller talk about his restaruants on CNBC with some footage from our film used in the background: